Have I lost my fire? Feeling haggard and out of breath near the very beginning of this modest approach, I pause for a step and drink deep from the forest air. Maybe I packed too much crap in my crash pad. Do I really need both pairs of shoes, a full liter and a halfContinue reading “Objects in Mirror: On aging, dying and the push to perform”
Author Archives: coachjfire
Coach JFire on the Nugget podcast!
I sat down in June for almost 3 hours of conversation with Steven Dimmitt, and the result was this podcast! I relistened and I’m very happy with the result – he must have done a great job editing it. Anyways, the show notes are incredibly helpful and detailed as always: https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone and that link willContinue reading “Coach JFire on the Nugget podcast!”
Is it actually better to climb harder?
Most climbers want to get better at climbing. I ask all my clients what motivates them, and progression is the most common answer. Generally I’m of the mind that progression is a great goal and motivator. But I think progression has downsides which are rarely discussed. There are two obvious reasons we want to progress:Continue reading “Is it actually better to climb harder?”
Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it
“Overtraining” is a phrase thrown around vaguely in the climbing world, just like “training.” It reminds me a bit of that scene in This is the End, where anything that’s bad falls under the umbrella of gluten. Can’t easily crank out a one-arm after two sessions of weighted pull-ups? Feeling overtrained. Didn’t send your projContinue reading “Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it”
Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training
Athlete testing for rock climbing is still a brand new, evolving concept. I’ve spent the last few months testing myself and my 1-on-1 clients and putting together data sets. This is a short list of key points to consider when embarking on a testing regimen. What is testing good for? Testing is good for someContinue reading “Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training”
Cueing yourself for climbing skill & power
Even a simple climbing movement is wildly complicated in biomechanical terms. Every time we grab a handhold or shift our balance, we’re automating a bunch of tasks. This gets easier as we do more and more of the same basic moves. As movements get more complex and unique, less of the task is automated, andContinue reading “Cueing yourself for climbing skill & power”
Climbing tactics 101: What tactics are, and why they matter
Have you ever spent the entire drive home from the crag beating your head against the steering wheel, because you know if you had just done something a little differently that you would have been able to send? Maybe you were tired, because you didn’t bring enough food. Maybe you messed up your skin, andContinue reading “Climbing tactics 101: What tactics are, and why they matter”
A self-coached climber’s guide: Questions to ask yourself before you start a new training plan
One of the most frequent questions asked on climbing forums around the internet is some form of “hey, I need feedback on my training plan.” Usually, these climbers are self-coached. The plans run the gamut from “meticulously collected from respectable, vital training books” to “do every drill I could find on the internet every dayContinue reading “A self-coached climber’s guide: Questions to ask yourself before you start a new training plan”
Climbing confidently: developing a habit of sending
Why do some people seem to pull a send out of the bag when they haven’t done moves, or even looked close to doing them? Why can some climbers travel to far-flung areas and consistently climb at a high level, while some others are only able to turn in good performances at their local haunt?Continue reading “Climbing confidently: developing a habit of sending”
Managing arousal levels, and matching arousal to imposed demand
Climbing makes many different demands of us. We need to be able to speed ourselves up, then slow ourselves down. Try extra hard, then be incredibly gentle. Focus on what we’re doing in this section, but also notice footholds for the next section, and sometimes go fully out-of-body to circumvent pain and fear. This setContinue reading “Managing arousal levels, and matching arousal to imposed demand”