Improving work capacity, the mileage paradox, and the Progression Zone

Henry George said, “Man is the only animal whose desires increase as they are fed; the only animal who is never satisfied.” Now, obviously Mr. George didn’t own a dog… if my partner and I get home at different times, our dog will try to convince the later arrival that the earlier one didn’t alreadyContinue reading “Improving work capacity, the mileage paradox, and the Progression Zone”

The Topout Guide: how to stop floppin’ and start toppin’

Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific. Every topout involves a significant and often novel angle change, and each one requires a different set of movement skills, strategies, and body awareness. MaybeContinue reading “The Topout Guide: how to stop floppin’ and start toppin’”

Objects in Mirror: On aging, dying and the push to perform

Have I lost my fire? Feeling haggard and out of breath near the very beginning of this modest approach, I pause for a step and drink deep from the forest air. Maybe I packed too much crap in my crash pad. Do I really need both pairs of shoes, a full liter and a halfContinue reading “Objects in Mirror: On aging, dying and the push to perform”

Coach JFire on the Nugget podcast!

I sat down in June for almost 3 hours of conversation with Steven Dimmitt, and the result was this podcast! I relistened and I’m very happy with the result – he must have done a great job editing it. Anyways, the show notes are incredibly helpful and detailed as always: https://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone and that link willContinue reading “Coach JFire on the Nugget podcast!”

How I work with climbers, and testimonials from my clients

There are a lot of climbing coaches out there, and a lot of different ways they work with clients. If you’re thinking about getting a coach, bravo! It’s one of the best things you can do for your climbing. I’ve had climbing coaches, nutrition coaches, strength coaches, and other types of coaches, and every relationshipContinue reading “How I work with climbers, and testimonials from my clients”

Is it actually better to climb harder?

Most climbers want to get better at climbing. I ask all my clients what motivates them, and progression is the most common answer. Generally I’m of the mind that progression is a great goal and motivator. But I think progression has downsides which are rarely discussed. There are two obvious reasons we want to progress:Continue reading “Is it actually better to climb harder?”

Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it

“Overtraining” is a phrase thrown around vaguely in the climbing world, just like “training.” It reminds me a bit of that scene in This is the End, where anything that’s bad falls under the umbrella of gluten. Can’t easily crank out a one-arm after two sessions of weighted pull-ups? Feeling overtrained. Didn’t send your projContinue reading “Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it”

Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training

Athlete testing for rock climbing is still a brand new, evolving concept. I’ve spent the last few months testing myself and my 1-on-1 clients and putting together data sets. This is a short list of key points to consider when embarking on a testing regimen. What is testing good for? Testing is good for someContinue reading “Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training”

Free kettlebell & climbing strength program: The Wolf Pup

This 6-week block based on Geoff Neupert’s Wolf program should be a good challenge for an athlete who is familiar with kettlebells and training for climbing. It is not a climbing-strength-specific program, but rather a general preparatory phase. This means it would be ideal for use in an off-season, like during bad weather, or duringContinue reading “Free kettlebell & climbing strength program: The Wolf Pup”