Thoughts on climbing and training

You are not your max hang

Intuition is an essential tool for the climbing athlete. As climbing gets more popular, training and coaching inevitably follows that growth. The pressure to organize and record and meticulously obsess over every trackable detail gains momentum each day. But you are not these numbers; and if you let them, they’ll start making your decisions forContinue reading “You are not your max hang”

Why bother?

“Is it really summer if you don’t get granite rash scrapes on top of your poison oak rash?” my friend Sean joked, while we tried to stuff our things back into our packs without dropping anything essential down the abyssal holes between talus. I had just given up trying our “warmup project.” After thrashing myContinue reading “Why bother?”

Improving work capacity, the mileage paradox, and the Progression Zone

Henry George said, “Man is the only animal whose desires increase as they are fed; the only animal who is never satisfied.” Now, obviously Mr. George didn’t own a dog… if my partner and I get home at different times, our dog will try to convince the later arrival that the earlier one didn’t alreadyContinue reading “Improving work capacity, the mileage paradox, and the Progression Zone”

The Topout Guide: how to stop floppin’ and start toppin’

Topping out is anxiety-inducing for a lot of climbers. There are a few reasons for this, but most of them stem from the fact that climbing skills are terrain specific. Every topout involves a significant and often novel angle change, and each one requires a different set of movement skills, strategies, and body awareness. MaybeContinue reading “The Topout Guide: how to stop floppin’ and start toppin’”

How I work with climbers, and testimonials from my clients

There are a lot of climbing coaches out there, and a lot of different ways they work with clients. If you’re thinking about getting a coach, bravo! It’s one of the best things you can do for your climbing. I’ve had climbing coaches, nutrition coaches, strength coaches, and other types of coaches, and every relationshipContinue reading “How I work with climbers, and testimonials from my clients”

Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it

“Overtraining” is a phrase thrown around vaguely in the climbing world, just like “training.” It reminds me a bit of that scene in This is the End, where anything that’s bad falls under the umbrella of gluten. Can’t easily crank out a one-arm after two sessions of weighted pull-ups? Feeling overtrained. Didn’t send your projContinue reading “Overtraining in climbers: what it is, how to spot it, and how to deal with it”

Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training

Athlete testing for rock climbing is still a brand new, evolving concept. I’ve spent the last few months testing myself and my 1-on-1 clients and putting together data sets. This is a short list of key points to consider when embarking on a testing regimen. What is testing good for? Testing is good for someContinue reading “Finger strength testing philosophy & update from 4 months of training”

Loading…

Something went wrong. Please refresh the page and/or try again.