What is climbing performance’s secret ingredient?

Underappreciated reality of climbing performance: it’s about time. If there is a secret ingredient to climbing performance, it’s time.

On the rocks, a climber who spends 5 hours a week climbing outside will usually out-perform a climber who trains 10 hours a week and doesn’t go outside.

A climber who spends 10 years hangboarding a little will out-perform one who has maxed out their hangboard workouts for a year straight.

We are creatures of habit. Time on rock is a habit. Sending is a habit. Physical attributes are important because they allow us to spend more time and energy climbing. Sometimes you’re not strong enough to do the move, but most of the time it’s that you don’t see the move.

The best things I ever did for my climbing: moving into my Dodge Neon straight out of college; the van I bought after that, and every dirtbag climbing trip I went on in it; and building a wall in my garage. These were all great experiences in their own way, but the common thread is that they all made it easier to spend time actually climbing. I am lucky that I was able to do these things – but I also bent life to my will to make them happen, and made sacrifices.

Want to do something amazing with your climbing? Put in the time.

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