Category Archives: Uncategorized

So, you’re some kind of fancy doctor. What kind of limitations does that put on your training and climbing? Fancy is a big stretch, but yes, I work as an anesthesiologist in British Columbia. Surprisingly, the job offers a lot of benefits that have supported my climbing. I’m very fortunate to be able to takeContinue reading “Client spotlight: Jordan Meyers”

Sometimes I get stuck in a loop of going back and watching videos from back in the day, especially of my prouder FAs. It’s hard to explain the feeling it gives me. Some kind of nostalgia… not for the era, or for my form, but for that person I was. So wholly earnest and psyched.Continue reading “100 Days”

Everything in climbing performance comes down to opportunity cost. Genetically speaking, we all have different starting points, and different rates of improvement, so our potential is always specific to us. But given enough time, almost anyone can achieve a very high level relative to their own potential. Whether or not you can climb a certainContinue reading “Opportunity cost”

I think of tactics as your decisionmaking skills related to your performance: your ability to do the things that boost your ability the most, and not do the things that would drag you down. Every time you make a conscious decision, that’s an opportunity for your climbing in that session to be better or worse.Continue reading “Common tactical errors”

Chelsea had a killer season, sending a ton of V8s and V9s – several of them notoriously difficult for shorties. I caught up with her to ask a few questions about her training and mindset for this sending spree! A lot of tactics probably contributed to your success this season, but what were some ofContinue reading “Client spotlight: Chelsea Murn on a fall 2024 sending spree”

A lot of people are making resolutions right now. Some people are just making goals, and that’s an interesting distinction to me. I didn’t make any goals in 2024. I don’t think that held me back from achieving great things. But I also didn’t make any resolutions in 2024. And in some ways I thinkContinue reading “2025”

I’m releasing my tactics and technique master class. Read more about it and get registered here: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/principles

For 13 years, my dog Ty has been perennially ahead of me, uncatchable. He’s always pushed me to move faster. For me, the toughest thing about having an aging dog has been moving faster than him for the first time. Cardio isn’t top of mind for most climbers, but maybe at least part of theContinue reading “Doing the Dishes”

Couple little updates for those who still check my blog! Principles of Problem Solving I’m about to drop a climbing technique & tactics course! No one knows about it yet. But you, loyal blog reader, shall be rewarded for your commitment to text-based information. My course is called Principles of Problem Solving and it willContinue reading “Summer 2024 Updates”

Panopticon: a vantage from which you can see everything; all-seeing. From Ancient Greek pân, “all” + optikós, “visible”. Words have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of mediaContinue reading “Living in the panopticon: self-talk and climbing’s social media nightmare”