Category Archives: Uncategorized

I’m releasing my tactics and technique master class. Read more about it and get registered here: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/principles

For 13 years, my dog Ty has been perennially ahead of me, uncatchable. He’s always pushed me to move faster. For me, the toughest thing about having an aging dog has been moving faster than him for the first time. Cardio isn’t top of mind for most climbers, but maybe at least part of theContinue reading “Doing the Dishes”

Couple little updates for those who still check my blog! Principles of Problem Solving I’m about to drop a climbing technique & tactics course! No one knows about it yet. But you, loyal blog reader, shall be rewarded for your commitment to text-based information. My course is called Principles of Problem Solving and it willContinue reading “Summer 2024 Updates”

Panopticon: a vantage from which you can see everything; all-seeing. From Ancient Greek pân, “all” + optikós, “visible”. Words have power. In our self-talk before we even begin climbing, in the things we say to each other on the hike in, in the things overheard at the crag, and in the vast quantity of mediaContinue reading “Living in the panopticon: self-talk and climbing’s social media nightmare”

When we think about climbing, we usually break it down into moves. Even climbing media about cutting-edge routes like DNA, or B.I.G. breaks them down into a series of moves. And it makes sense. Moves are the obvious way of interacting with the wall. Moves are eminently visible, as they often come with dramatic shiftsContinue reading “Going deeper than moves & missing the forest for the trees”

If you’re having a frustrating climbing session, here’s a thought: Get pissed all you want, but that session is going to go by. And guess what? The same is true of your day, your week and your life. It’s not all that surprising that the biggest tools for becoming a more focused & effective climberContinue reading “Thoughts on frustration & a brief update”

Every year I run through and make a list of my top experiences. It’s part performance analysis and part gratitude practice. I look for obvious lessons or takeaways from these successes. Why are they memorable? What barriers did I overcome? Was this win expected or unexpected? I discussed this habit, and a bunch of otherContinue reading “2023 Review & JFire on the Struggle Pod”

On December 21, a group of climbers from around Southern California, and in fact from around the country, gathered to pay our respects to the passing of our friend Kevin Curran. I think all told, there were over 60 people present. I’d like to offer my immense gratitude to those who organized and attended thisContinue reading “King Kevin”

With another esteemed fall season coming to a close, it’s time to tally up the scores, lick our wounds and retreat to our training dens and caves. The conditions here in the Northwest are dwindling in fits and starts, with the extended forecast barely providing enough optimism for me to keep the crash pads loadedContinue reading “Iron, Granite and Rice: 5 Commitments for the Fall 2023 Season”

Determination is highly valued in climbing culture. But is it always good? Swiss legend Martin Keller recently climbed a V16 after another 150+ session siege. Johnny Kydd had an intriguing interview on the Careless Talk podcast about investing over 100 sessions in a V15. Much has been said about Daniel Woods’ winter in Vegas whereContinue reading “Progressing vs performing”