Problem selection:
For this drill, use gym climbs at RPE4-6 – usually around your onsight level or below. You should feel building fatigue, but not get so pumped that you start failing. Problems should be 8-10 moves and take up to a minute to climb. Super long problems on terrain like big roof features will make this much more difficult. You will always rest 90 seconds between reps and rest completely (8-10+ minutes) between sets.
It will help to have a plan of what problems to do.
Progressing/regressing:
To get the difficulty right, the easiest thing to change is the work:rest ratio. We want to sustain a light but manageable pump. You should be breathing slightly harder than usual but not so pumped that your movement quality goes down and you start snatching at holds.
So for instance, if you find you’re getting too pumped, wait 3-5 seconds after the timer before pulling on for the next rep. Sometimes, one late rep is enough to “catch up,” but you can continue at the reduced ratio as needed until you recover enough. Make sure to note how many reps were at the reduced work ratio.
You can also change the wall angle or type of problem to get some rest. For instance, if you do a steeper climb and find yourself getting pumped, doing a lower angle or slab problem will switch up what parts of your body get tired.
Climbing:
Pick 3-4 problems, and repeat them in order, resting 90 seconds between problems. Your plan will specify the number of reps and sets. Rest completely between sets.
Focus:
Climb economically and smoothly.
Alternate:
See Board Aero Power to do this session on a board (check with your coach before you replace this session every week, as the board version will involve much less variety and can be more intense.)