Problem selection:
For this drill, use board or spray wall climbs at RPE4-6 – usually around your onsight level or below. You should feel building fatigue, but not get so pumped that you start failing. Problems should be short, 4-6 moves, and usually take 25-40 seconds to climb. You will always rest 60 seconds between reps and rest completely (8-10+ minutes) between sets.
It will help to either have the problems memorized, or have a friend helping by changing board problems or pointing out holds.
Progressing/regressing:
To get the difficulty right, the easiest thing to change is the work:rest ratio. We want to sustain a light but manageable pump. You should be breathing slightly harder than usual but not so pumped that your movement quality goes down and you start snatching at holds.
So for instance, if you find you’re getting too pumped, wait 3-5 seconds after the timer before pulling on for the next rep. Sometimes, one late rep is enough to “catch up,” but you can continue at the reduced ratio as needed until you recover enough. Make sure to note how many reps were at the reduced work ratio.
If the board is too hard, to bring problem difficulty down to the right RPE, use any feet.
Climbing:
Pick 3-4 problems, and repeat them in order, resting 60 seconds between problems. Your plan will specify the number of reps and sets. Rest completely between sets.
Focus:
Climb economically and smoothly.