Problem selection & preparation:
This is a simple drill that can be done on any route or boulder.
Climbing:
During this drill, you will climb straightforward problems while keeping your attention on your center of gravity. At first, you may need to climb slower to pay attention to this while also making hand and foot moves. Try pausing in each stable position to notice your center of gravity. For best results, try to climb a variety of styles of problems and angles.
It helps to imagine your center of gravity as a ping pong ball. Sometimes this ball is in the center of your torso. On a slab, your ping pong ball may be slightly behind you so that it remains over your feet. On an overhang, your ping pong ball hangs away from the wall, and you have to pull it towards the wall before you can move upwards.
These questions may be helpful:
- Is your ping pong ball trying to pull back from the wall?
- Is your ping pong ball moving dramatically from side to side when you make moves?
- When you make an upward move, does your ping pong ball stop after moving upward, or does it sag back down before becoming stable?
For best results, film yourself and watch the footage, imagining the ping pong ball from the 3rd person as well.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any climbing sessions. Perform at any time.