It’s important when climbing and visualizing not to get overwhelmed by the sheer amount of little stuff happening in our movements. Eventually, we’re striving for unconscious competence – and the path there is through deliberate practice.
For this deliberate practice, it’s important that we not let the little details get in the way of what matters most. So for this drill, we’re only going to worry about one thing at a time.
The drill:
1. When you encounter a difficult or complex move, and there are multiple things you could focus your attention on – such as your hip positioning, the way you grab a certain hold, or the amount of tension you have on a heel or toe hook – notice that confusion.
2. From the ground, pick one of these things to focus your attention on.
3. Visualize yourself doing the move, focusing your attention on that one thing.
4. Attempt the climb (or single move) and stay focused on that thing.
5. Repeat the move or section multiple times, focusing on different things.
6. Also practice trying the move focusing on nothing at all – just climbing.
7. Pay attention to what cues or focus areas work best for you.
- Do you balance better focusing on your feet, or your hips?
- Do you move more powerfully focusing on your hips, or your legs?
- Are you more precise when you focus on your fingertips?
etc.
Look for patterns. Write these down.