Problem selection & preparation:
Before climbing, pick 1-3 spots on a route that you plan to practice the drill on. Start with easier-looking spots to make the drill easier; as you progress, choose harder-looking spots to really practice relaxing and resetting. Visualize your sequence so you have a rough idea of the body position you’ll be in on those holds.
Climbing:
When you reach the target hold/holds, stop moving. Follow these steps:
1. Relax your arms and breathe. You can have both hands on, or shake one hand at a time during the drill.
2. Look down and spot your feet and any footholds available. You can move your feet if the other feet seem better.
3. Examine. Look up and examine the next section of climbing. Examine the general terrain: does it look strenuous or relaxing? Look for the next logical stance, such as entering a corner or above an angle change. Spot any handholds you can, and also look for logical foot positions. Continue breathing.
4. Plan. Come up with a rough plan for how to climb the next sequence of climbing to the next logical stance. This could be as simple as “work my hands across that rail” or a precise move-by-move sequence.
5. Go through your theoretical sequence once completely in your head. Take a deep breath.
6. Continue. Keep climbing.
You can think of this as “Reset, Pause, Attack” or “Reset, Plan, Attack” if it helps.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with most climbing sessions. Perform after warming up and before conditioning.