Redpoint Strength

Problem selection:

Select 3-5 problems at RPE7. If possible, choose problems that you are familiar with, or have tried/sent before. If you haven’t tried problems (e.g. in a new gym) use the first rep to practice moves as needed. On subsequent reps, just try from the start and move on regardless of whether you send.

If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Problems may need to be slightly easier or less steep near the end of the session.

Climbing:

Climb each problem 3 times, resting between reps until recovered, at least 2-3 minutes. This is not an endurance exercise, so you should not feel pumped or out of breath. It’s OK to work moves a little bit, but mostly you should be trying from the start and making your tries count.

Rest 5 minutes between problems.

Focus:

Try to improve your performance on each subsequent rep. Economy of movement, precision, and comfort level are indicators that a rep is good. If everything else feels good, try to climb a tiny bit faster.

This is a high-intensity exercise, and it’s okay to fail. Try to pick problems so that you send on 80% of the reps.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.