Problem selection:
Select a problem at your maximum redpoint grade for this context. If possible, choose problems that you are familiar with, or have tried/sent before. The goal is to work the problem in its entirety and then give it several send attempts. This is a slightly harder and more focused variation of Redpoint Strength.
If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles each time you do the session and adjust the grade according to the style.
Shopping:
Take a few minutes to sample the moves and decide whether to commit the session to this project. At this point you could move on to another problem or commit. Try not to do this on more than a few problems, as it adds fatigue prior to the working session. But since this is a full commitment session, it’s good to check the problem out first. This is also good practice for going outside (or to new gyms) where understanding how to quickly evaluate a problem and “shop around” is highly valuable.
Climbing:
Take 20-30 minutes to try all the moves, work out cruxes and figure out a sequence. Put some effort into all the parts of the problem. Rest between efforts, and conserve your energy. The goal is not to send yet, but to gather information as economically as possible.
Now rest for 5-10 minutes.
Give the problem up to 5 redpoint attempts. The goal is to send it at least once. You can try to send it again if you want, or move on to other problems (if your planner says to.) Rest 3-5 minutes between efforts – this should only be a bit easier than project level climbing.
Focus:
Try to improve your performance on each redpoint attempt. Economy of movement, precision, and comfort level are indicators that a rep is good. If everything else feels good, try to climb a tiny bit faster.
This is a high-intensity exercise, and it’s okay to fail.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.