Route selection:
Select a route at your highest one-session redpoint grade for this context. If possible, choose routes that you are familiar with, or have tried/sent before. The goal is to work the route briefly and then give it 2-3 send attempts. This is a slightly harder and more focused variation of Redpoint Strength.
If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick routes of varying styles each time you do the session and adjust the grade according to the style.
Shopping:
Shopping is more difficult with routes but may be prudent. It’s easier to do your shopping from the ground based off of looks & intuition. If you do go up and the route seems hard, abandon the attempt early.
Climbing:
Take one run from the ground to try the moves, work out cruxes and figure out sequences. Try to put some effort into all the parts of the route. You may not completely know the route before you come down and that’s OK. on the rope as needed, and conserve your energy. On your initial attempt up the route, being as efficient as possible is key. Using good commuting tactics, pulling on draws, etc. just like you would do outside is highly encouraged. The goal is not to send yet, but to gather information as economically as possible.
Give the route up to 3 redpoint attempts. The goal is to send it. If you do send it, you can try to send it again if you want, or move on to other routes (if your planner says to.) Rest completely between efforts.
Focus:
Try to improve your performance on each attempt. Economy of movement, precision, and comfort level are indicators that a try is good. If everything else feels good, try to climb a tiny bit faster.
This is a high-intensity exercise, and it’s expected to fail.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.