Problem selection:
Select 3-5 problems around 1 grade below your working grade. Usually this is ~2 grades below your max in this context (gym, outside, a specific board, etc.) If you aren’t sure, lean towards the lower grade.
If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Problems may need to be slightly easier or less steep near the end of the session.
As you become accustomed to the session you may inch the grade for this session up towards your working grade, especially if using problems you are familiar with.
If you are using problems that are new to you, do not try to flash! Take 5-7 minutes per problem to sample the moves and figure out your sequence. You don’t need to perfect each section. Focus on the areas that seem like cruxes. Don’t worry about sending yet.
Climbing:
Attempt to climb each problem 3-5 times, or as specified by your plan. Rest for 2 minutes between reps. This should feel like not quite enough rest. This IS an endurance exercise. The problems are slightly easier than a primary redpoint session but you should feel fatigued going into reps as the session progresses.
If problems are very short or long you may want to adjust the rest period slightly (1 1/2 – 2 1/2 minutes) – bring this up with me.
Try from the start each time and make your tries count. We are looking for precision, execution and focus.
Rest 5 minutes between sets/problems.
Focus:
Try to improve your performance on each subsequent rep. Economy of movement, precision, and comfort level are indicators that a rep is good. If everything else feels good, try to climb a tiny bit faster.
This is a high-intensity exercise, and you will almost certainly fail in later reps. Due to the nature of the session some power loss is expected, but don’t let it go completely off the rails.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.