Redpoint Doubles w/ Working Session

Problem selection:

For each set, you will pick two problems. One harder problem around your working grade (1-2 grades below your max) and an easier problem around 3-4 grades below your max. The goal of the session is to send the problems on command, while somewhat tired from the previous problem. This does have an endurance component, but it is primarily a mental and tactical drill.

You could repeat the same problems during your session, or rotate through several. How well you know the problems will greatly affect the difficulty of the drill, so select problems that you’re familiar with or repeat the same problems if you’re new to the drill.

If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Problems may need to be slightly easier or less steep near the end of the session.

Climbing:

Working session: Take 5-7 minutes per problem to sample the moves and figure out your sequence. You don’t need to perfect each section. Focus on the areas that seem like cruxes. Don’t worry about sending yet.

Workout: For each set, you will climb the problems back to back. Only take long enough to chalk up and glance at the next problem. Your plan will specify the order to climb the problems:

Hard -> Easy is generally easier.

Easy -> Hard is generally harder.

Rest 5 minutes between sets.

This is a high-intensity exercise, and it’s okay to fail. You should almost always send the first problem; on the second problem, fatigue will set in and you may fall.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.