Problem selection:
Select problems that around your flash level – within about +/- one grade. If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Ideally, select problems that you have NOT tried before. If you’ve done all the available problems, try to pick ones you can’t remember very well.
Do not review problems before beginning the drill!
Remember: there’s still value in climbing problems that are a little too easy, or failing to flash problems that are a little too hard.
Climbing:
Before examining the problem, start a 5 minute timer.
Review the problem quickly but completely.
Try to climb the problem on your first try, following through on your sequence if you have one. Make adjustments as you go if needed and trust your intuition. Note any changes you made for the next reps. Start each try from the beginning.
The goal is to complete the problem in the 5 minutes. Try as much as you need, keeping in mind that the climbing-to-rest ratio will depend on the style of problem. Slabs and slow problems will require getting right back on after you fall, while powerful problems will demand more rest.
Rest 5 minutes between problems.
Expect to fail!
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.