Power Stall

Problem selection:

Select problems based on your plan. 6-8 moves on a steep wall unless otherwise specified. Problems should be significantly easier than your max on this terrain – usually 3-4 grades easier, but the type of problem matters.

Do the first few moves of the problem without the drill if necessary to avoid dabbing.

Moves with underclings, gastons or positions that would be tweaky to cut feet should be skipped. If a problem mostly consists of these positions, do not use it for this drill.

Climbing cadence:

Rest as much as needed in between attempts until you reach the intended number of repetitions. This is a maximum power exercise. You should feel powerful on each rep and not tired. You should not feel pumped or out of breath.

Focus:

On each move, connect with the hold, hold a moment of tension, then deliberately cut your feet. Hold the cut position for long enough to let your momentum stop and reach a balance point. Then engage the core and swing your foot to the next foothold. Repeat for each move.

Combination:

Perform at the beginning of your session, after warming up fully and after any finger strength work.