Warm up your fingers before this session if performing it on a non-climbing day, or more than 4 hours after a climbing session. 5-10 “hangs” of 3-5 seconds per hand up to your first warmup set load is good. You can do the warmup against an immovable object, like a lifting platform or your own foot, for convenience. (Unless your plan specifies otherwise.)
Load determination:
A 20-30mm edge is a good default, but your plan may specify grips/devices to use.
Rest 1 minute between warmup sets and 2-3 minutes between working sets. This is between use of the same hand, so you may lift with your left hand while your right hand is lifting. Some of the same muscles are used even when lifting with one side, so resting a little bit before alternating sides is recommended.
Working sets are just lifts to lockout. “Lockout” means the hips are extended like the top of a deadlift.
Instructions:
Warmup sets:
- 3x 7:5 (7 seconds hold, 5 seconds off) @40% max
- 3x 5:5 (5 second hold, 5 seconds off) – increase weight 10-15%
- 3x 5:5 (5 second hold, 5 seconds off) – increase weight 10-15%
Begin your working sets between the highest warmup set and 80% of your max.
- 3 pickups off the ground
- 3 pickups off the ground – increase weight (up to 80%) if comfortable.
- 3 pickups off the ground – increase weight (up to 80%) if comfortable.
Note your sets and loads in your log weekly.
Combination:
Ideally, this can be done several hours before or after a climbing session, or on a separate day. It can be performed immediately before climbing, but expect some fatigue during the climbing session. Do not perform immediately after climbing.