Problem selection:
Select problems of the difficulty indicated on your plan, or make up problems of that difficulty on a wall of 0-40 degrees. Start with good hands and feet and increase the difficulty of the holds and distance of the movements as you progress.
In some cases the nature of the problem (dynos etc) may make it difficult to perform the drill. Just do the drill on moves where it’s sensible, or select problems where you can do the drill on as many moves as you can.
Focus:
On each move, you should focus on maximizing the tension generated by the lower body. This doesn’t mean you have to climb inhibited or robotically. Just ensure that you are squeezing the lower body during each hand move, and letting the upper body do only as much work as necessary.
You can use a combination of these strategies:
- Flagging pressure
- Rudder flagging pressure
- Digging feet
- On steep walls, squeezing the legs together when heel hooking and toeing in – imagine you’re trying to pop a balloon between your knees
- Externally rotating one leg while internally rotating the other – like a 90/90
- You can use free leg strategies like the Monkeytail as long as it increases the tension in the other leg
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.