Problem selection:
For this drill, you will make up your own problems on a spray wall or training board of 20-40 degrees. 7-10 handholds.
Choose holds that face each other where possible, as shown in the demonstration video. Use big enough handholds that finger strength is not the primary limiting factor. It may take some practice and consideration to find the right holds.
This is an all feet drill, using the biggest feet and most stable lower body positions possible to maximize the tension through the arms and shoulders.
Climbing:
Lock the arms and shoulders so that the legs are more extended. You don’t need to do every move completely locked off, but try to get a variety of shoulder positions in the mix.
Move deliberately and slowly. No cutting loose, jumping or thrutchy movements.
It’s normal to be pumped at the end of the rep but you should not feel pumped or out of breath when starting the next rep. Rest between reps until recovered, at least 3 minutes.
Focus:
You should not fail. We are looking for time under tension here, not power. Your plan may specify a different time under tension (TUT) for this drill. If not, default to about 5-7 seconds per hand move, and a total of 30-40 seconds per rep.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.