Problem selection:
Select problems of the difficulty indicated on your plan, or make up problems of that difficulty on a wall of 0-40 degrees.
In some cases the nature of the holds may make it difficult to perform the drill. The goal is to learn how to use different grips with purpose, so do your best to make the grip fit the hold. In cases where it doesn’t work, that’s fine – just grab that hold however it makes sense.
For instance, you won’t really be able to crimp a 2-finger pocket. Just crimp the other holds on that rep, and grab the pocket as a pocket.
Focus:
You will climb each problem 3 times.
The first rep, try to hold each hold as “relaxed” as is practical. This may be a full drag on a big sloper, or an open/chisel grip on edges and crimps.
On the second rep, try to hold each hold in the most aggressive grip that’s practical. This may be full crimping with the thumb, a higher-angle crimp, or using a chisel grip on a sloper that you can stay fully open on. If you don’t usually pinch pinches, you must use your thumb on this rep!
On the third rep, try to hold each hold the way it “wants” to be held. This could depend on the sequence, or what position you need to be in. Also factor in what you learned from the first two reps. (Again, if you usually avoid pinching pinches, you should pinch them on this rep.)
Be aware not to hold holds in such a relaxed or aggressive position that you risk injury – for instance, excessive dragging with 2 or 3 fingers can be risky to the lumbrical if untrained. Relax as much as is practical/safe. And with the aggressive rep, don’t crimp so hard that you are obviously begging for it. Use good judgment.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.