Flash & Repeat

Problem selection:

Select problems that are reasonably easy for you – 1-2 grades below your max flash level. If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Ideally, select problems that you have NOT tried before. If you’ve done all the available problems, try to pick ones you can’t remember very well.

Outdoors, the grade range will vary more widely. Reading problems is more difficult and there may not be many problems available. Do the best you can to choose problems in the right grade range. But remember: there’s still value in climbing problems that are a little too easy, or failing to flash problems that are a little too hard.

Climbing:

First, review the problem and come up with a sequence to climb it. Take your time; this is the most important step.

Try to climb the problem on your first try, following through on your sequence where prudent. It’s totally fine to make adjustments as you go if needed. Note any changes you made for the next reps. Start each try from the beginning.

Try to climb the problem 2 more times, resting between reps until recovered, at least 2-3 minutes. This is not an endurance exercise, so you should not feel very pumped or out of breath. Clean up your climbing and sequence on each subsequent try. You should feel satisfied with your final rep. 

Rest 5 minutes between problems.

It’s OK if you fail some. Just try to make each rep a little bit better than the last one.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.