Flash or Trash (Routes)

Problem selection:

Select routes that are reasonably easy for you – around 1 grade below your max flash level. If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick routes of varying styles. Ideally, select routes that you have NOT tried before. If you’ve done all the available routes, try to pick ones you can’t remember very well.

Outdoors, the grade range will vary more widely. Reading routes is more difficult and there may not be many routes available. Do the best you can to choose routes in the right grade range. But remember: there’s still value in climbing routes that are a little too easy, or failing to flash routes that are a little too hard.

Climbing:

First, review the route and come up with a sequence to climb it. Take your time; you only get one go per problem, so this is the most important step.

Try to climb the route on your first try, following through on your sequence where prudent. It’s totally fine to make adjustments as you go if needed.

Rest 3-5 minutes between routes.

When you’re starting to feel near powered out, your plan may allow one or more “bonus attempts” at the end of the session. This means you can go back to a previous route you didn’t flash and try to send it. Otherwise, keep moving on to new routes.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.