“Repeater” is a loaded term in finger strength training. Technically, any duty cycle of finger strength would be a repeater if you do it more than once: 5 on 3 off, 7 on 53 off, 7:5, 10:5… etc.
Traditional repeaters often have a large number of sets and reps, and are designed to build some fatigue. This trains the body to resist fatigue and can have a hypertrophic (muscle growth) effect on the forearms.
Load
What makes these “strength repeaters” is that the overall work is relatively short (3-4 sets) so fatigue doesn’t set in. This also means we can go heavy on them if we want to. Usually because there are multiple reps the load won’t be as heavy as you think. RPE quickly goes up over the reps, so be cautious with your load. If you’re not sure, perform a set of a few reps on the indicated holds at bodyweight or less (feet on the ground) and gauge your RPE.
These can be done on a hangboard using added weight, or using a no-hang device by pulling to a rough percentage of your max. Keep in mind that for the same pulling intensity, your RPE may go up over the sets/reps as you get tired. Follow the RPE guidelines first. It’s OK if the total intensity goes down accordingly.
Instructions:
Your plan will specify the set/rep details, but usually it’s something like 4 sets of 3x 5:3.
3x 5:3 means one set is 5 on, 3 off, x3:
5 on, 3 off
5 on, 3 off
5 on
Then you would repeat that for 4 sets.
Combination
Like all finger training, do this separately from your climbing if you can. Either several hours before or after your main session, or on a separate day. You can also do it immediately after finalizing your warmup, but before your main session. Just keep in mind it may reduce the intensity of your climbing session slightly.