“Repeater” is a loaded term in finger strength training. Technically, any duty cycle of finger strength would be a repeater if you do it more than once: 5 on 3 off, 7 on 53 off, 7:5, 10:5… etc.
Traditional repeaters often have a large number of sets and reps, and are designed to build some fatigue. This trains the body to resist fatigue and can have a hypertrophic (muscle growth) effect on the forearms.
This session is a short, difficult version of repeater that requires less total work but taxes the energy systems used when we’re redlining, such as at the top of a sport climb.
Load
What makes these “failure repeaters” is that the intensity is low, but the volume of each set is high (to failure.) This means the sets are long and pretty brutal, but the overall workout is short.
These are a volume adaptation so no load is needed. Use bodyweight unless otherwise suggested by your plan.
Instructions:
Your plan will specify the number of sets and the rep scheme to perform. Usually this will be:
1. 10-20 progressive hangs to warm up. Don’t overthink it, just load the board with your feet on in a few different positions for a few seconds, rest for a few seconds and repeat.
2. A couple warmup sets of normal repeaters such as 4x 7:5 (this is 7 on, 5 off, times 4)
3. Your failure sets, usually 1 to 3 total sets. “Failure” in this case is either when your form breaks on the grip, or you let go.
Combination
Like all finger training, do this separately from your climbing if you can. Either several hours before or after your main session, or on a separate day. Since this is training to failure, do not do this before your climbing session. If you can’t fit it in your week, that’s fine – skip it.