“Repeater” is a loaded term in finger strength training. Technically, any duty cycle of finger strength would be a repeater if you do it more than once: 5 on 3 off, 7 on 53 off, 7:5, 10:5… etc.
Traditional repeaters often have a large number of sets and reps, and are designed to build some fatigue. This trains the body to resist fatigue and can have a hypertrophic (muscle growth) effect on the forearms.
Load
What makes these “rapid repeaters” is the lower time under tension and rest cycle of each rep. This means the load will be relatively low, and we’ll focus on engaging the fingers quickly. This session should be done at bodyweight since it is more about the rate of contraction than recruitment. Depending on your level of fitness, your feet may not leave the ground during the reps. Contact me if you’re not sure.
These are most conveniently done on a normal hangboard, but can be done on a no-hang device if necessary. Because of the short work:rest ratio, no-hang devices are somewhat inconvenient.
Instructions:
Your plan will specify the set/rep details, but usually it’s something like 4 sets of 5x 3:3.
5x 3:3 means one set is 3 on, 3 off, times 5.
3 on fast, 3 off
3 on fast, 3 off
3 on fast, 3 off
3 on fast, 3 off
3 on fast
Then you would repeat that for 4 sets.
Combination
Like all finger training, do this separately from your climbing if you can. Either several hours before or after your main session, or on a separate day. It can also be done at the final stage of your warmup. This form of repeater is more effective in that position than strength-oriented repeaters.