AKA Off-the-ground lifts
Warm up your fingers before this session if performing it on a non-climbing day, or more than 4 hours after a climbing session. You can do 8-10 lifts of 3-5 seconds per hand up to your warmup set load. You can do this warmup against an immovable object, like your own foot, for convenience, unless your plan specifies otherwise.
Load determination:
Rest 1 minute between warmup and 2 minutes between working hangs. A 20-30mm edge is a good default, but your plan may specify grips. Hold the isometric for 5 seconds for the warmup reps. For the working reps, lift the weight all the way to lockout, hold for a brief moment, and then put it back down. Rest a few seconds if needed before lifting again. The working reps are “clustered” – do a few reps in a 15-20 second span, then rest fully before the next cluster.
Instructions:
Grip one 5 second hold – 2-4 warmup reps @ RPE7 (80% max)
Grip two 5 second hold – 2-4 warmup reps @ RPE7 (80% max)
Grip one lift – 2-4 sets of 3 reps @ RPE8 (90% max)
Grip two lift – 2-4 sets of 3 reps @ RPE8 (90% max)
Note your set/rep counts in your log weekly. Rest 2-3 minutes between sets.
Combination:
Ideally, this can be done several hours before or after a climbing session, or on a separate day. If performed immediately before or after climbing, that’s fine too – just expect your performance in the latter session to drop slightly.