Optional warmup:
Use this warmup if doing this session on a non-climbing day. Otherwise, use your usual climbing warmup. Repeat the warmup 1-3 times as needed.
Doorway shoulder circuit: for all of these, push/pull @ RPE6 and perform on each side.
Push / pull combination, 10 seconds
Internal rotation, 10 seconds
External rotation, 10 seconds
5x 5:5 repeater on jug or 30mm edge (feet on ground if needed)
Repeat the repeater every 1-2 minutes until warmed up.
Load determination:
Choose an edge on which you can only hang for 10-15 seconds, around 6-12mm.
Instructions:
Perform 4-6 reps, or as instructed by your plan. Rest 3-4 minutes between reps.
Hang for 5-15 seconds per rep, leaving a 3-5 second margin. So, drop off when you feel you could only hang for 3-5 more seconds.
Pay attention to your perceived effort and adjust the edge size for the next rep:
If you feel like you could hang longer than 15 seconds, reduce the edge size by 1-2mm.
If you feel like you could not hang longer than 5 seconds, increase size by 1-2mm.