You will need a force gauge for this session. (Tindeq, Force Board, etc.)
Session timing:
Please do this session when well-rested! At least two sleeps of rest after climbing or finger training. Do not test when fatigued, like at the end of a session or the day after training!
Do a thorough warmup, up to the point that you would be ready to try project-level climbs.
You will want to spread test 1/2, 3 and 4 out, with adequate rest (10+ min) in between. Alternatively you can perform the tests on different days during test week.
It’s alright to climb normally after testing, just keep in mind you may power down a bit earlier than usual.
Tests:
There are four tests: peak force curl, peak force, anaerobic capacity, and anaerobic power.
Record your numbers for each test, bilaterally or for each side depending on your test method. You will also want to record any notes about the setup, such as the angle of your elbow, whether you were sitting or standing, what edge/s you used, etc. Being consistent with your setup is important to make testing useful!
Input your test results here: https://forms.gle/p7ZBRGAQ8PKKE7U66
Test 1: Peak force 90deg seated finger curl – 2-3 reps
Test 2: Peak force 90deg seated max pull – 2-3 reps
Test 3: Anaerobic capacity (60% MVC duration test)
Test 4: Anaerobic power (30 sec all-out curl)