Problem selection:
For each set, pick one problem. You will repeat it three times in a row with just enough time to chalk up and rest. It will probably be 2-3 grades below your max, depending on the angle of the wall and length of the problem. If you have a goal route, choose a similar angle. Otherwise, use a variety of angles. Ideally you will just barely complete the last rep, or fall at the very end.
How well you know the problems will greatly affect the difficulty of the drill, so select problems that you’re familiar with or repeat the same problems if you’re new to the drill. Once you are familiar with the drill, try to use a combination of new problems and familiar problems so that you don’t “learn the test” too much. If you don’t know any problems, you can skip a set of this workout to learn some new ones to use.
If a particular style is not indicated by your plan, pick problems of varying styles. Problems may need to be slightly easier or less steep near the end of the session.
Climbing:
For each set, you will climb the problem back to back. Only take long enough to chalk up between efforts.
Rest 8 minutes between sets.
This is a high-intensity exercise, and it’s okay to fail. You should almost always send the first rep; on the second and third reps, you may fall.
If you fall in the first half of a problem, catch your breath, chalk up, and pull back on where you fell.
If you fall in the second half, move on to the next rep or end the set.
If you fall twice on the same rep, stop the set and rest for the next set.
When to stop:
The number of sets should be specified in your plan – usually 3-5 as part of a session, or 5-8 as a whole session. In order to hit this goal, you may need to reduce the difficulty of the problems as you progress. If you drop the difficulty more than once, that’s a good sign to end the session.
For example, let’s say you are supposed to do 5-8 sets. You do 4 sets at V5, then need to reduce to V4 and do one more set. You might do one more set here, or drop to V3. At this point, end the session rather than reducing further.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.