All movements in climbing are neurological. Without nerves, there is no muscle function. Muscle fiber recruitment and coordination is trained over the years by trying harder moves, but equally important is being able to use those muscles when it counts.
Elite climbers have a very high capacity for intuiting what muscles need to be activated to be successful during a move. One way we can improve access to this intuition is by practicing the position/muscles on the ground.
This is the drill:
1. After examining the climb you will do next, pick a move or series of moves that exemplify a certain position. Examples:
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- Rowing your opposite hip into the wall in a twist-lock motion
- Locking off and reaching for a distant hold
- Holding opposing gastons
- Holding compression or underclings
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2. Close your eyes and mimic the position/positions that you will be in. You may need to sit, lay down or stand up.
3. Engage the key muscles that will be used in the movement. Try to approximate the muscle force that will be needed. (i.e. only use maximum effort if you are about to try a limit boulder.)
4. Climb as normal.
5. Review what the move actually felt like on the wall compared to what you engaged consciously beforehand.