An important feature of being a successful climber in many contexts is accessing your entire breadth of power and skill in the moment. Different movements and situations place different demands on us. Being able to adjust your mindstate and arousal level is essential to meeting those demands. All “mind control” begins with being able to enter a redpoint state of mind on command. This is practiced first in low-stress situations, with easy climbing, such as sitting on the floor before trying a problem in the gym. Later, the same habits can be used under higher pressure situations with harder climbing.
It’s important to begin very focused. Don’t forget what you’re doing and pull on the wall absent-mindedly. We want each effort on the wall to be deliberate.
You will repeat a word or phrase that is representative to you of how you like to climb generally. I like “flow.” A friend of mine says “crush the holds gently.” Find a phrase you like. You can experiment, but use the same phrase for each breath during the drill.
This is the drill:
1. Take a look at the climb you will do next. Closely examine it if you like, but after this examination, return to a “soft focus” where you are just aware of where it starts, general feature, color of holds, etc.
2. Let the climb come out of focus and focus on something else like your chalk bag or the floor.
3. Take 5-10 deep breaths. With each exhale, repeat your word or phrase to yourself.
4. Return to focus on the climb. Approach the climb. Take one more breath and repeat the phrase, then pull on and begin climbing.