Problem selection:
For this drill, you will make up your own problems on a spray wall or training board of 20-40 degrees. 7-10 hand holds.
This is an all feet drill. Make small hand movements. For now, the goal is to just practice moving in a “low gear” style on a board, but not necessarily to use small holds.
Your plan may further specify holds/techniques/positions to practice during this session.
Climbing:
Move deliberately and slowly. No cutting loose, jumping or thrutchy movements. Rest between reps until recovered, at least 3 minutes.
It’s normal to be pumped at the end of the rep but you should not feel pumped or out of breath when starting the next rep.
Focus:
You should not fail. We are looking for time under tension here, not power. Your plan may specify a different time under tension (TUT) for this drill. If not, default to about 5-7 seconds per hand move, and a total of 30-40 seconds per rep.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.