Board Flexibility Session 1

For this drill, you will need a spray wall, training board or gym wall of 20-40 degrees. A variety of holds is ideal. The easier the handholds, the more the session will be focused on lower body end range strength, which is the goal. For instance, don’t perform this session on a Moonboard, since you would be limited by your finger strength. Use all holds and footholds, so you can get into more positions. Rainbowing on gym climbs is a good option.

All climbing should be done in a “low gear” style. Move deliberately and slowly. No cutting loose, jumping or thrutchy movements.

Rest between reps until recovered, 2-3 minutes. You should not feel pumped, out of breath, or tired between reps.

1. High step repeats: For each move, step your opposite foot up high, to about 75% of your comfortable high step max. Reps and time under tension specified in your plan.

2. Split repeats: Maintain feet at 70-80% of your comfortable maximum width. Rotate the active hand’s side hip into the wall on each move. Reps and time under tension specified in your plan.

3. Heel hook repeaters: Find a comfortable jug that you can match, with large holds to the right and left that you can heel hook. Pull on, place your heel, and take off the same side hand for time. Squeeze the heel hooking leg. Then relax it, and switch sides. Your plan will specify sets and time. The higher the heel and steeper the wall, the more intense this will be. Be creative with the placements. Start with low time and sets!

Variations: If the hand/footholds are too poor to perform #1 or #2, or you don’t have a spray wall, find a jug and symmetrical footholds in the gym where you can practice the position and just switch hands in place for time. Boring, but just as effective.

Combination: Perform after your climbing session and before any conditioning.