Focus:
The aim of the session is to build up mileage on a board by completing lots of powerful moves. You want to strike a balance between intensity and completing the session. Essentially the goal is to eventually do the 10 hardest problems you can, in a session, without powering down. Once you can do this, you can trade out the easiest problem for a slightly harder problem, making the 10 total problems slightly harder. And so on.
On your board of choice, you will select 10 total problems each from two categories:
Category 1 – Problems you have dialed and you’re executing well on
Category 2 – Problems you are still working on
At first, you should pick roughly 5 of each. Over time, 8 or 9 of the problems should move into category 1.
All problems should be of a difficulty that is reasonably challenging, but not maximal, since you want to finish the session. For instance, it may take you a try or two to repeat problems you’ve previously sent.
Depending on the board, the grades may still be quite humble. For instance, even though I have personally climbed V12, due to the nature of this session I would probably pick problems of V5-7 on a Moonboard.
Session structure:
Start the session by repeating all the climbs from category 1.
- If you fail to repeat them, but you are confident they’re doable, keep them in next week.
- If you fail to repeat them and they seemed harder than you thought, move them to category 2 or take them out entirely
- If they felt alright, keep them in next week.
- If you crushed them casually, they might be a candidate to replace next week.
Then, spend 5-15 minutes each on problems from category 2 (or until you power down.)
You can decide whether to keep problems in for category 2, or select new climbs the following week.
When you start out this session will be punishing as you won’t know all the climbs. But over a few weeks, as you get used to the climbs and have a good list, it will start to make sense.
Keep the session high quality and be humble and honest with yourself. This is a high power output session – if you power out, end the session, even if you haven’t finished your 10.