Problem selection:
Select a wide variety of problems for this drill. Choose different angles, intensities, and dynamic/static climbing styles.
Climbing cadence:
Climb each problem 2-3 times. Rest as much as needed in between reps to climb well.
Focus:
A stable position is one where you aren’t wiggling around, pivoting against any of your points of contact, or trying excessively hard to stay on the wall. Often, we can think of the ideal stable base as a triangle between the primary handhold and two footholds. The more scalene or obtuse the triangle, the more body tension is needed to stay stable. An equilateral or isosceles triangle will require less tension. (See next page for visual examples.)
Before each hand or foot move, focus on finding a stable position. You may need to shift your hips or shoulders, or engage your arms more or less in order to find this position. You will not always need two footholds to find this stable base. Sometimes you may use a flagging foot for pressure against the wall, or dangling in the air to balance.
At first, this drill will seem very robotic: move – find next position – move – etc. Continue to take the time to look for stable positions as the drill becomes more familiar.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.