Problem selection:
Pick problems that have a definite rest stance and crux. You have some options to fake this if needed: you can pick two problems, beginning on one that’s moderately challenging and transitioning into one that’s near your limit. You can use a jug that’s off-route to perform the drill before rejoining for the crux. This drill can also be performed on a goal route, coming out of a rest stance. Try to practice different types of problems and movements with different power words to learn what works for you.
Climbing:
Practice the crux, in isolation if possible. Find something about the hold, movement or sequence that you can focus on to improve your success. This is usually an adjective. For instance, taking a certain hold with authority, moving with confidence, being fierce or remaining calm or focused.
Climb the problem or route up to the last possible rest or stance. Rest until you feel relaxed. Say the power word to yourself. Climb the crux section. Build this power word into your mental sequence and include it when you visualize the moves.
In addition to the power word, try other components, like:
- deliberately grunting or growling
- exhaling sharply and loudly
- controlling your face, like narrowing the eyes, smiling, or closing your eyes for a brief moment before launching into the crux
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.