Corkscrews

Problem selection:

Select problems of the difficulty indicated on your plan, or make up problems of that difficulty on a wall of 0-40 degrees. Start with good hands and feet and progress the difficulty of the holds and distance of the movement as needed. A symmetrical board can be useful.

Climb the problems, performing a “corkscrew” movement with the hip on each move. It’s called this because your center of gravity will twist inward, getting closer to the wall and to your pulling hand, and then reverse and twist back outward.

Focus:

For each movement, focus on the reaching hand’s hip. Begin the movement by “popping” that hip out from the wall, then swinging it back in. Use this momentum to free the reaching hand, getting the hip as close to the wall as possible during the movement. Move the feet as usual, then set up and use the corkscrew on the next hand move. Always keep your feet on during this drill. 

Try to reduce the momentum needed to the minimum necessary. On lower-angle walls, the move can be performed almost fully static. Steeper walls will require more momentum, but make sure there is a moment of control and poise with the hip tight to the wall.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.