Problem selection:
This drill is for working difficult projects, and should be done in a project or limit bouldering session.
Focus:
The goal of this drill is to get accustomed to difficult positions. This can be done in several different ways:
1. As a warmup, at the beginning of a project session.
Hold each position for 3-5 seconds, at a normal tension level. Then drop off, rest for 15-20 seconds and repeat on the next position.
2. While working an individual move, in the middle of a session.
Hold the start and end positions for 5-10 seconds, gradually squeezing the main muscles of the position harder. At the end of the rep, look for parts of the body that can be relaxed while still trying hard in the necessary areas. Rest about 30 seconds between the start and end position. Don’t perform the actual movement during the drill. You may want to do 2-3 reps of both positions before attempting the move. Pay close attention to which parts of the body are most active, and which parts can relax.
3. As a final exercise when you’re about to depart a project (usually outside.) For this method, use the “squeeze & relax” method from method 2, but work your way through all the positions as in method 1.