Board EMOM (Every Minute, On the Minute)

Problem selection:

For this drill, use board or spray wall climbs at RPE4-6 or as specified in your plan. You should feel building fatigue, but not get so pumped that you start failing. Problems should be short, 4-6 moves, and take 15-25 seconds to climb. Your plan should specify a work:rest ratio to use. If you take longer than the programmed time, drop off and rest for the next rep. You do not need to finish problems.

It will help to either have the problems memorized, or have a friend helping by changing board problems or pointing out holds. Some system boards have a playlist feature with a timer that can be great for this workout.

Progressing/regressing

To get the difficulty right, the easiest thing to change is the work:rest ratio. We want to sustain a light but manageable pump. You should be breathing slightly harder than usual but not so pumped that your movement quality goes down and you start snatching at holds.

So for instance, if you find you’re getting too pumped, wait 3-5 seconds after the timer before pulling on for the next rep. Sometimes, one late rep is enough to “catch up,” but you can continue at the reduced ratio as needed until you recover enough. Make sure to note how many reps were at the reduced work ratio so you can adjust next time.

To bring problem difficulty down to the right RPE, use any feet. I highly recommend this strategy.

Climbing:

Pick 2-3 problems, start a 1 minute interval timer and repeat them in order on the minute. Your plan will specify the number of reps and sets. Rest 6 minutes between sets unless otherwise specified. For instance, 2 sets of 6 reps would look like this:

Climb problem A, B, C, A, B, C starting each problem on the minute. Rest 6 minutes.
Climb problem A, B, C, A, B, C starting each problem on the minute.

Focus:

Climb economically and smoothly. 

Combination:

This is an endurance session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and climbing, and before any resistance training / conditioning.