Problem selection:
Best performed in a gym, or an outdoor area with a good circuit or lots of eliminates. Can also be done on a spray wall or training board, but it’s better to be able to change up the angle and style of climbing. Generally, select problems that are 4-5 grades below your max in this style of climbing. If you redpoint V7 inside, perform this session on mostly V2-3 boulders. However, depending on your work capacity and your facility’s grades you might need to do slightly harder or easier boulders. Your plan may specify an RPE not to exceed.
It’s OK to deviate a bit, like climbing a V5 and then a V0 to “average out” to the target grade. Avoid repeating problems if you can. Try to rotate through styles and angles. This can be a good social activity, but try to keep moving and don’t get sucked into one area.
Use an interval timer to maintain cadence.
Climbing cadence:
A – climb a boulder every 3 minutes (about 20 problems / hour)
B – climb a boulder every 2.5 minutes (about 24 problems / hour)
C – climb a boulder every 2 minutes (about 30 problems / hour)
D – climb a boulder on the minute
E – self-guided timing (or noted in your planner)
Focus:
Emphasize your technique – don’t get lazy! Staying focused over a long duration is part of the workout.
Combination:
Perform after any other climbing drills or bouldering, and after power work. This can be a long workout, so it might be draining to combine it with conditioning. If you have a good selection of problems, this can make a good active rest day.