(Note: 10 is the goal, but this session may also be programmed as top 6, top 8, etc.)
Focus:
The aim of the session is to build up mileage by completing lots of moves. You want to strike a balance between intensity and completing the session. Essentially the goal is to eventually do the 10 hardest problems you can, in a session, without powering down. Once you can do this, you can trade out the easiest problem for a slightly harder problem, making the 10 total problems slightly harder. And so on.
As the gym gets reset, you will need to trade problems out.
All problems should be of a difficulty that is reasonably challenging, but not maximal, since you want to finish the session. For instance, it may take you a try or two to repeat problems you’ve previously sent.
In order to get the volume in, the grades may be lower than you expect.
Session structure:
Start the session by repeating climbs you’ve previously done.
- If you fail to repeat them, but you are confident they’re doable, keep them in next week.
- If you fail to repeat them and they seemed harder than you thought, consider choosing different climbs next week.
- If they felt alright, keep them in next week.
- If you crushed them casually, they might be a candidate to replace next week.
Then, spend 5-15 minutes each on new problems to add (or until you power down.)
You can decide whether to keep these problems, or select new climbs the following week.
When you start out this session will be punishing if you don’t know all the climbs. But over a few weeks, as you get used to the climbs and have a good list, it will start to make sense.
Keep the session high quality and be humble and honest with yourself. This is a high output session – if you power out, end the session, even if you haven’t finished your 10.