Problem selection:
For this drill, you will make up your own problems on a spray wall or training board of 20-40 degrees. 7-10 hand holds.
This is an all feet drill. You should choose an area of wall that has ample opportunity for heel hooks. Steep prow features can be good if there are enough problems. Spray walls with big blob holds are also good. Ideally, the drill is more compression oriented rather than perching on heel hooks. You should be in some hip external rotation & abduction if possible.
Use good handholds, in compression if possible. The goal stimulus is not on the hands and fingers like it is with classic low gear.
Climbing:
Move deliberately and slowly. No cutting loose, jumping or thrutchy movements. Rest between reps until recovered, at least 3 minutes.
It’s normal to be pumped at the end of the rep but you should not feel pumped or out of breath when starting the next rep.
Focus:
You should not fail. We are looking for time under tension here, not power. Your plan may specify a different time under tension (TUT) for this drill. If not, default to about 5-7 seconds per hand move, and a total of 30-40 seconds per rep.
Combination:
This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.