Pace Repeats

This session is like Confident Feet – but for your entire body, and the problems can be harder. Some loss of precision is expected. Get aggressive.

Problem selection:

Select problems around 1-2 grades below your max in this style. These problems should be mildly challenging for you. You might be able to flash them, or you may need to work some moves to understand the beta. Once you understand the beta you should be able to repeat the problem on command. If you can’t consistently climb the problem then it’s too hard for the drill; pick something else.

Climbing cadence:

You will climb each problem 3 times. Rest as much as needed in between reps, at least 3 minutes.

First, move slowly and precisely, 20% slower than you would normally. All your movements should be precise and controlled.

It’s OK to try to flash the problems for your first rep, but keep your pace in mind (slower than usual on the first rep.) If you fall, take some time to work out the problem before continuing with the drill as normal.

On the second rep, move your body and hands at your normal climbing speed. Maintain precision and control as much as possible, but you should be moving aggressively.

On the third rep, try to move your body and hands 10% faster than you usually would. The goal is to be more aggressive, so you may lose some precision. You can repeat the problem more times to improve precision.

 

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.