For the edge focus session, choose one of the following cues to focus on for each attempt/problem.
Don’t hog the edge – place the tip of your toe near the center of the edge, not where the edge meets the wall. As you extend your ankle (plantarflexion) if you “hog the edge” then the bump of your big toe may press into the wall, causing your foot to pop. This is especially important with slots, blocked holds and hooded feet. This also helps you practice eye contact and foot precision. See examples below the other cues.
Choose a good attack angle with the foot – There are two important considerations when placing an edging foot. First, the angle of the foot. Should it be parallel to the wall? Or perpendicular, as in an inside edge? Choose the foot angle that places the best patch of rubber in contact with the foot, or allows you to move the rest of your body as needed. For instance, when doing a drop knee, the non-dropped foot may need to be more perpendicular to the wall to allow the hips to open.
Choose a good angle of the ankle, and isolate it – While extending the ankle is important for reach, too much extension will reduce the rubber in contact with the edge and may cause the foot to pop. This is the crossover between edges and smears, as smearing usually requires a fixed ankle posture. For this drill, practice reaching through the leg and upper body without extending the ankle. Or, place the foot in a way that ankle extension is possible, and maintain that extended ankle position throughout the move.
Dig through the posterior chain – Focus on digging through the back, glutes, hamstrings, and calves. With some practice this should feel a little bit like a deadlift.
Dig through the toe – Focus on using your toe to try to pry the hold off the wall, as in the digging feet drill.
Foot hogging example:
An example foot edge. This is a great example foot, because the surface above the edge is sloped to be almost unusable. Being imprecise on this foot will lead to a foot pop.
A precise placement. This foot will stay as the ankle moves through its range of motion.
Hogging the foot. The tip of the toe is too far on to the edge and will pop when the ankle extends.