Soft Pauses

Problem selection:

Select problems on various terrain, or as indicated by your plan.

Some terrain and types of climbing will make pausing difficult due to a lack of stability, so stick with easier or simpler climbing at first until you understand the drill.

Focus:

The goal of this session is to climb in a series of stop-go-stop-go movements. Perform each hand move as a deadpoint, including any necessary movement of the body away from the target hold to generate momentum. Then move the feet as needed, sight your target hold, and pause before initiating the next move. Think look-pause-go, move the feet, look-pause-go, move the feet, etc.

On easy climbs, this should still be fairly flowy. As the climbing gets harder, it will be harder to find stability in between moves. Lean into this by both looking for stability during the pause and increasing your aggression during the move.

Eventually, try to use the pause as a brief hesitation to understand the distance and momentum needed to the target. When generating momentum, move aggressively – but only pump once. The pause should be the only hesitation. No double pumping! Repeat climbs if needed to eliminate double pumps.

In this example I climb two problems: an easier problem around V4 and a harder problem around V7 on a 45 degree wall. I use soft pauses in both, but the skill is more emphasized on the easier problem, because I have more comfort and strength to pause.

Combination:

This is a general session and can be combined with any session. Perform after warming up and before any conditioning.