Load determination:
This is the formula to determine load for this test:
Total = (Bodyweight + Max Load)
Test Load = (Total * Multiplier) – Bodyweight
As an example, if Jim’s bodyweight is 70kg and their max hang added weight is 40kg:
70kg + 40kg = 110kg (Total)
(110kg * .85) = 93.5kg (85% Load)
93.5kg – 70kg (bodyweight) = 23.5kg (Test Load)
Jim would add 23.5kg for this test.
Instructions:
Perform this test after 2 sleeps of rest since your last climbing session. Warm up thoroughly. Use an interval timer app set to 7 seconds on, 3 seconds off. Make sure it’s set to announce more reps than you can do!
When ready, add your test load and perform as many sets of 7:3 repeaters as possible. The test is over when you fail to hang on for the full 7 seconds. Discomfort from trying hard is acceptable, but stop if you feel pain. Film yourself or have a friend time you – it’s very hard to count when trying this hard!
Report the total amount of time before you failed. If you fall in your 8th rep, and completed 7 successfully, that would be 7 * 10 = 70 seconds.