A good way to “prime” our ability to visualize a sequence later is to give ourselves a mental imprint of each of the things that we will later visualize. To create this imprint, we’ll make deliberate eye and physical contact with the holds in sequence.
For boards with an app like the Moon and Tension board, you can run through this drill while looking at the problem on the app the first time. However, I recommend that you use this drill without the LEDs active to force yourself to learn the holds without “training wheels.”
When climbing outside, perform this drill with any holds, but make sure you use the ones that are in your sequence. The more particular you are with the part of the hold you use, the better. (So if it’s a big crimp rail, touch and look at the part that you will use in your sequence.)
The drill:
1. Stand underneath the problem and run through the sequence, starting with the start holds and start feet.
2. For each hold or foothold in the sequence, make eye contact with the hold, and tap it with your finger (or point at it if out of reach.) Tap the holds in order, and do not skip any hand or foot moves.
3. Face away or down from the problem and visualize your sequence again. Try to see the holds in your mind, just as they looked when you tapped them.
4. Climb the problem as sequenced. If you made an error or missed a hold in your sequence, perform the drill again but correct the error.
5. Optionally, later, after your session, see if you can still visualize entire problems from the session. See the holds you tapped as clearly as you can in your mind.