This is a follow-up drill to the aggression practice. Many of the cues are the same or similar. Unsurprisingly, when we are more aggressive, we’re more tense; and when we’re more relaxed, we’re less aggressive. Use the same cues if you like, but rather than paying attention to the psychological state of aggressiveness, pay attention to the physical amount of tension.
1. Examine a climb from the ground, before trying it. Try to guess at the areas where the most tension will be needed. Practice using the following cues to increase or decrease your tension appropriately.
Increase tension:
- Squeezing the whole body or certain body parts with the breath held
- Sharp exhales out through the nose
- Looking at the holds as you grab them, pretend to crush them into dust
- Using grunts as sharp exhalations during movement (“ki-ai”)
Decrease tension:
- Long, audible exhales through the mouth
- “Soft focus” of attention on footholds, the wall itself, or something unrelated like trees or people climbing elsewhere in the gym
- “Sloth” the holds if possible (3 finger drag and relax the arm)
2. Review after climbing whether the level of tension was appropriate. Use further cues on the following attempts to adjust accordingly.
These cues can also be used to reduce tension after a difficult climbing or training session. For example, use the cues to relax after deadlifting. This can help keep excessive tension from building up over time.