The perfect psychological state to climb 40 minutes of hard slab is different from the state needed to do a single coordinated double clutch. Being proficient at a variety of styles means having access to a variety of psychological states.
The goal of this practice is to develop cues to change our physical and psychological state before climbing, or while climbing. One of the most important attributes to work on at first is aggression.
1. Examine a climb from the ground, before trying it. Make a guess as to what psychological state may be beneficial to the climb, or to a certain move. Try to put this in terms of how aggressive you need to be. Practice using the following cues to increase or decrease your aggression appropriately.
Increase aggression:
– Tensing of body or certain body parts
– Narrowed eyes, focus directly on the climb
– Clenching hands into fists
– Grunting or yelling
Decrease aggression:
– Long, audible exhale through the mouth
– “Soft focus” of attention on footholds, the wall itself, or something unrelated like trees or people climbing elsewhere in the gym
– “Sloth” the holds if possible (3 finger drag and relax the arm)
– Rubbing fingers and thumb together gently
2. Review after climbing whether the level of aggression was appropriate. Use further cues on the following attempts to adjust accordingly.
3. After practicing on the ground for some time, you should know what cues work best for you. Begin practicing the various cues while climbing.